Hugh Hamilton, The Moocher, Mourvèdre 2018
Lazing around on the vine it’s always the last to harvest; no
variety mooches more than Hugh Hamilton’s Mataro. Luckily this loafer is no
slouch in flavour and so always worth the wait.
The rows of the Church vineyard are hemmed in by a creek at one
end and an enormous old gum at the other. In years like 2018 this
can mean one end is dipping its toes in the water while the other is
getting fairly thirsty. I think the range of flavours we see rolling
about this wine is, at least in part, due to this variation along each
row. Rich fruit but still crisp and with tremendous structure.
Cherry wood, char and plum jam, a lick of toffee apple too, giving
a bouquet of salivating freshness. Opulent, it luxuriates on the palate,
seeming in no particular hurry to be anywhere else. The creamy
wave of plush fresh fruit foams out into a pleasantly drying leather
and tobacco finish.
Pan fried maple and apple pork chops, or a roast beetroot and butternut pumpkin salad with tahini.